The Dark Times: Part 4

By five in the morning my mattress was deflated enough that my side was on the floor.  The dawn light was coming in and while I listened to a pickup idling at the intersection outside I contemplated how things had gone so wildly off course. I left London with no answers as to what was […]

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The Dark Times: Part 3

The goal for the day was to make it to the park.  I had a room at my cousin’s home in London and though there was a small park across the street, a larger park sat about a quarter mile away where a group of people and their dogs gathered each day at five.  If […]

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The Dark Times: Part 2

After using the wrong drill bit a few times Colm and I had managed to hang a plywood board to the wall of his garage.  Colm never parked his car in the garage.  The space was occupied by the miscellaneous collections of an ordinary Irish family in Dundalk.  There was football gear for the daughters, […]

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The Dark Times: Part 1

At the lake’s edge I kept the water filter clutched between my feet and alternated each hand between pumping and being tucked in my pocket.  My sister was in the tent, waiting out her high blood sugar. It was the end of our sixth day walking in Iceland.  The lake we were camped at was […]

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Seven Authentic Places not in the Guidebook

The longest I’ve went without passing through a town was five days.  It was while crossing the Andes dividing Chile and Argentina.  Though doable in the moment, coming to a town only once a week isn’t sustainable. While walking I’m performing a continuous balancing act of consumption and resupply.  I must have enough water, enough […]

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